Between 14 September and 12 November 2010 The Grey Gypsies, Terry & Meg, drove their camper trailer (Rocky) over to south-west Western Australia. Their route took them through Ouyen, Pinaroo, Loxton, Laura, Port Augusta, Streaky Bay to Eucla on the West Australian border. After that it was further across the Nullabor, an arid red- soil Mallee scrub plain that had turned green with high grasses and new shrubs because of the unusual amount of coastal rain that fell in 2010. At the end of six days on the road they arrived in the old gold town of Norseman at the other end of the Nullabor, ready to start their trek round the South-West. The Quest A chance meeting at a fuel station in Norseman introduced us to the Eastern Goldfields. What were the gold rushes like in WA in the 1890s and what was left to see? We had to ramble off to find out and so we drove north to start the search at Kalgoorlie. This modern town with parks, shopping and restored century-old buildings has outgrown its rough and tumble origins as a whoopee town for bearded miners looking for booze and brothels. It's worth several days exploration if you like gracious federation buildings and want to delve into its history. Hint: Passing through and want a quick coffee or meal? Go to Boulder - the twin city of Kalgoorlie. Smaller, historic, restored, good cafes & pubs and much easier to park, especially if you are pulling a van or trailer. We bought the guide to the trail (Golden Quest Discovery Trail Guide Book, $40, at the Information Centre in Kalgoorlie) and used it as a handy map, while enjoying the stories and CDs while driving.