Grey Gypsies of Australia
Lake King, Peak Charles
Instead of driving the coast to Esperance we chose to
head north and inland to Lake King and from there
take the inland 4x4 track to Norseman through Frank
Hann NP and Peak Charles NP. We stayed at the small
Lake King CP in 2007 and loved its great facilities and
shady inland camping spots, so we returned this trip
expecting it to be ruined by cabins and progress…but
no… it was still as good as ever! Delicious dinner
cooked in the camp kitchen out of the way of flies and
other bities.
The next morning we set off on the Norseman track,
about 250 km in length. Terry had talked to a
professional "dogger" who camped at Lake King the
previous night. He frequently drove the Norseman
track and was able to tell us about track conditions.
It's greasy when wet, but in the dry you could drive a
Corolla down it: the first 50 km are on bitumen! There
are a few spots that were deeply rutted when we drove
it, but keeping alert for these spots it's easy to drive
round them and it's flat as a tack! The Navara laughed
all the way. We met up with the dogger and his van
just inside Frank Hann
NP. Euen has been
trapping wild dogs for
the local council for two
years and has noticed a
big change since doing
so. He caught around
180 dogs the first year,
mostly german shepherd
and bull mastiff crosses.
The second year he barely trapped 50 dogs and so he
believes he has contributed
to reducing the wild dog
population very significantly.
More importantly he has
noticed the kangaroo and
wallaby population increase
markedly, and this over two
years of drought. He
concludes that the wild dog
crosses are pack hunters and mostly feed on local
native animals such as the roos and wallabies. By
reducing the dog population, the native animals have a
chance to increase and stabilize. He believes his
trapping methods are humane as he regularly checks
his traps and uses them in conjunction with a fast
acting poison that kills the dog within minutes of being
trapped. Unfortunately the spread of feral introduced
animals has made it inevitable that they need to be
removed completely if possible; otherwise reduced
dramatically in numbers or native animals will suffer
from predation or lack of their natural foods. So much
for the camels, horses, buffalo, goats, pigs, deer, dogs,
rabbits, hares, cane-toads and cats that have colonized
parts of the bushlands!
Frank Hann NP runs along the Norseman track in a thin
line and was proclaimed to protect the great display of
wild flowers. Even in early November we saw dozens of
flowering shrubs and flowers, many in great masses.
Around 180km down the track is the turnoff to Peak
Charles NP. It winds into the campsite on a slow
wooded track round 25km in length. The arid mallee
scrub provides quite nice shade at the foot of Peak
Charles, a hill you can see from many kilometers away.
A walking track to the top of the peak is there for the
energetic who want to see great views over the
surrounding area. We arrived by lunch time and set up
for an overnight camp.
Lunch and dinner was eaten
in the tent where the flies
couldn't find us, but at night
the stars were magnificent
as was the cool night air - a
lovely night to finish up our
last campsite.
Lake King to Norseman
Copyright Grey Gypsies Australia 2009